Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Solo Day #3

This is unfortunately LSL Migraine Edition™, so I'm going to whisper tonight. If you can't hear, just scoot a little closer.

I had a disappointing day surfing today. And by disappointing, of course I mean better than any day I've ever had working. It was my first time back in the water after being attacked by my surfboard. I was very proud of myself for getting back in the saddle, especially without Jules by my side. (Jules has a life outside of being my Zen master and is busy all this week. The nerve.) Everything was going fine until I actually got in the water and then I freaked. The conditions were pretty good, not as crazy as that one day, but the currents were still stronger than I'm used to. And while I could control my board better, I just didn't feel ok about it. My heart was pounding like right after running that 5k. I was freaked.

I only took about 5 or 6 waves before getting out and letting my fear get the best of me. (And then I berated myself all day for driving that far for only 5 or 6 waves.) But the good news is that two of the rides were great, and one in particular was my best ride so far. Twice I rode strong waves the entire way in on my left knee AND RIGHT FOOT! My foot! It was in contact with the board! For an entire ride! My back was straight and the board was steady (although weaving gently back and forth - very cool feeling) and I couldn't even believe what was happening. It felt so stable and different and good. Sweet, sweet progress.

So I scheduled a lesson for tomorrow (I'm cheating on Jules, god help me) to help get my confidence in the water back and give me more practice time. I'm excited.

On the drive home I got my first ever migraine (wow) and made the very rare move of speeding because I was worried about how quickly the migraine would progress and I didn't know what that would be like. And that's when I got pulled over and got a speeding ticket. I know. So frustrating. I didn't explain about the headache or anything - I hate excuses - and I did cry, but only after he left. I haven't had a ticket for over ten years, (wait, there was one in Japan), but I've never been pulled over and gotten off with just a warning. I always get the ticket. Sucks. So frustrating when my funds are so limited. But I was speeding. Tomorrow will be better, right?

Also, unrelated but must include: This story made my day. It might make yours, too.


  1. That story makes me want to carry a harmonica around. Except I can't play it. :-) Thanks for sharing it!

    I'm sorry about the migraine (hope it's better?) and the speeding ticket (bah!) but that's excellent news about your foot being on the board while you rode the wave. GO YOU!

  2. I love this! you're writing about the same experiences & mishaps i'm having with surfing. alas, i keep going out despite hitting my head on rocks, getting slapped in the face by my board, falling over in my wetsuit, etc.