When I got there, there was no one in the water, and there were three dudes with three dogs and a pile of boards sitting on the rocks drinking beer. For some reason, they made me so happy :) . If you can't surf, what's better than hanging out with your buddies waiting to surf? The water was pretty choppy, but I had to go in up to my thighs (no wetsuit - brrrrr) to convince myself not to surf. I was super frustrated, but it was true - the conditions were too weird. Choppy, sideways, inconsistent sets. I don't understand how it can be like that with such low wind. It was similar to that day I went out, barely caught three waves, and came back home.
So I went into town and bought a book and came back to the spot to wait it out. I so wanted to get in the water today! When I got back to the beach, the three guys were all sacked out eating potato chips and drinking more beer. After a while they started a fire to make some food, and I realized (taking my cue from more experienced dudes) that I wasn't going to be doing any surfing today. Soooo disappointing. It's tough when I'm already there and I'm mentally psyched up for it - you just look at the water and know you would have such an amazing time if you could get in.
At that point I called Jules because I have a session scheduled with her for tomorrow and I wanted to make sure we were going to get to go out. I didn't want to get all stoked if she knew something about the expected conditions that I don't. Well! She called me back later tonight, and not only are we definitely surfing tomorrow, but . . . the shop owner thinks he found me a board. Isn't that cool? I'll get the details tomorrow. I'm super excited to get in the water!