Monday, November 2, 2009


I decided to head to the coast this morning to surf. There are four websites that I check for wave conditions, and three said it was a great day and one say it was cleaning up. I put on my bathing suit, threw my gear in the car, and headed out. It was a gorgeous sunny day at the beach, but when I got to the surf shop to rent my board, the girl said she didn't recommend going out. I was so bummed! I decided to go up to my spot to check it out myself.

When I got there, there was no one in the water, and there were three dudes with three dogs and a pile of boards sitting on the rocks drinking beer. For some reason, they made me so happy :) . If you can't surf, what's better than hanging out with your buddies waiting to surf? The water was pretty choppy, but I had to go in up to my thighs (no wetsuit - brrrrr) to convince myself not to surf. I was super frustrated, but it was true - the conditions were too weird. Choppy, sideways, inconsistent sets. I don't understand how it can be like that with such low wind. It was similar to that day I went out, barely caught three waves, and came back home.

So I went into town and bought a book and came back to the spot to wait it out. I so wanted to get in the water today! When I got back to the beach, the three guys were all sacked out eating potato chips and drinking more beer. After a while they started a fire to make some food, and I realized (taking my cue from more experienced dudes) that I wasn't going to be doing any surfing today. Soooo disappointing. It's tough when I'm already there and I'm mentally psyched up for it - you just look at the water and know you would have such an amazing time if you could get in.

At that point I called Jules because I have a session scheduled with her for tomorrow and I wanted to make sure we were going to get to go out. I didn't want to get all stoked if she knew something about the expected conditions that I don't. Well! She called me back later tonight, and not only are we definitely surfing tomorrow, but . . . the shop owner thinks he found me a board. Isn't that cool? I'll get the details tomorrow. I'm super excited to get in the water!


  1. You wanna have lunch today (Tuesday)???

  2. JEALOUS! Yes. Me. Way up in the mountains of Italy.

    I have size 11 feet too. When did you learn to surf? I'm almost 37... too old?

  3. I want a day where I just hang out at the beach with no agenda. Something's gotta give here in my life!

    That's super exciting about the board. :-)

  4. Hi Christine - I'm 38 and I've only been surfing for a couple of months. You are not too old! And maybe our huge feet help us float? :)

  5. You getting a board makes me giddy.

    And if you didn't make it to lunch with Lewis today, what do y'all think about brunch this weekend?