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Monday, November 2, 2009

Bust

I decided to head to the coast this morning to surf. There are four websites that I check for wave conditions, and three said it was a great day and one say it was cleaning up. I put on my bathing suit, threw my gear in the car, and headed out. It was a gorgeous sunny day at the beach, but when I got to the surf shop to rent my board, the girl said she didn't recommend going out. I was so bummed! I decided to go up to my spot to check it out myself.

When I got there, there was no one in the water, and there were three dudes with three dogs and a pile of boards sitting on the rocks drinking beer. For some reason, they made me so happy :) . If you can't surf, what's better than hanging out with your buddies waiting to surf? The water was pretty choppy, but I had to go in up to my thighs (no wetsuit - brrrrr) to convince myself not to surf. I was super frustrated, but it was true - the conditions were too weird. Choppy, sideways, inconsistent sets. I don't understand how it can be like that with such low wind. It was similar to that day I went out, barely caught three waves, and came back home.

So I went into town and bought a book and came back to the spot to wait it out. I so wanted to get in the water today! When I got back to the beach, the three guys were all sacked out eating potato chips and drinking more beer. After a while they started a fire to make some food, and I realized (taking my cue from more experienced dudes) that I wasn't going to be doing any surfing today. Soooo disappointing. It's tough when I'm already there and I'm mentally psyched up for it - you just look at the water and know you would have such an amazing time if you could get in.

At that point I called Jules because I have a session scheduled with her for tomorrow and I wanted to make sure we were going to get to go out. I didn't want to get all stoked if she knew something about the expected conditions that I don't. Well! She called me back later tonight, and not only are we definitely surfing tomorrow, but . . . the shop owner thinks he found me a board. Isn't that cool? I'll get the details tomorrow. I'm super excited to get in the water!

5 comments:

  1. You wanna have lunch today (Tuesday)???

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  2. JEALOUS! Yes. Me. Way up in the mountains of Italy.

    I have size 11 feet too. When did you learn to surf? I'm almost 37... too old?

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  3. I want a day where I just hang out at the beach with no agenda. Something's gotta give here in my life!

    That's super exciting about the board. :-)

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  4. Hi Christine - I'm 38 and I've only been surfing for a couple of months. You are not too old! And maybe our huge feet help us float? :)

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  5. You getting a board makes me giddy.

    And if you didn't make it to lunch with Lewis today, what do y'all think about brunch this weekend?

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