I want to introduce you guys to my new baby. This is a gorgeous 10' classic longboard that now lives at my house! I got it yesterday and the shop owner gave me a totally sweet deal so I didn't even have to sell drugs to get it. Let's see . . . I think we're going to call this a 2 + 1 fin set up (not sure why we don't call it 3; maybe a tri-fin refers only to short boards?), which means there are two small and one large fins on the bottom of the board. The guy put plastic fins on for me (as opposed to glass) to make it slightly less lethal, so that's good. It was shaped in California by Gary Linden, and it's Cleveland Street Surfboards (CSS), which is his second label. (Kinda like wine, I guess.) And then BFD is the local surf shop second label (with a rad logo.) It's basically never been in the water - a guy bought it, waxed it, and then decided he wanted a custom-made board instead. The shop owner threw in the fins, a leash, and wax (hello, bro deal), and I got soft racks to transport it on top of my car, which terrifies me and had me driving about 20 miles under the speed limit the whole way home.
Isn't it pretty? I'm so glad it's not red or bright yellow or something. And it's so soft and cuddly. I drove with my sunroof open so I could touch it - perfectly smooth. Soon I'll figure out how to wax it (it takes a base coat first - just like fingernails) and I'll get it wet, but last night I had a friend help me get it up the stairs in my apartment so it could sleep inside. Mine. All mine.
Now for the neurosis: I've had a bit of a strange reaction to getting the board - I guess I'm freaked out to be using a big girl board instead of my trusty soft top. I would like very much to not kill myself surfing (until I learn to ride bigger waves), and I would like to keep the humiliation I bring upon myself to a minimum. Using a softie says, "Hi world! I don't know what the hell I'm doing!" I just don't want to seem like a poser - I have no illusions that I'm really able to surf at all. In fact, the only reason that I blog about "going surfing" is that it's easier to say than, "Today I went to the coast and got a surf board and then went into the water with it but just up to my chest and then I kind of rode it on my belly and knees and I fell off a lot." I don't know. Surfing is an intimidating sport. It's crazy hard. The divide between people who know what they're doing and those who don't is massive. I think that is all part of the reason I'm liking going out in the winter so much - there are so few people around; very few distractions, nothing to worry about or even think about besides the connection I feel when the wave picks me up.
I love it. It's going to be a real adventure to get used to it and learn to balance on it and everything. I'm excited to connect with it in the water; I imagine it will be a good feeling to learn on my very own board. I promise to feed it and water it and give it lots of TLC. More stories - hopefully many, many more - to come.